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Material Wealth
The demands of contemporary luxury have changed the definition of precious materials while technological developments have enabled the use of more sophisticated alloys and unconventional metals. We give you access to the mineral rights
For centuries now, luxury watches have enticed collectors and sybarites alike with a combination of mechanical fascination, quality craftsmanship and top-grade materials. Gold has held its place as the traditional precious metal of choice for hundreds of years, and with good reason: its enduring value and beauty are still highly prized even today, despite the emergence of technologically-advanced new materials and modern fashion trends.
Today, there is a veritable plethora of choice materials with which to specify your prized horological creation. From heavy, durable steel to featherweight carbon fibre, there is a case material for every style, reason and occasion. Just as diamonds are a girl's best friend and thus every discerning woman invariably knows the vagaries of diamond appreciation, it is imperative for every watch collector to be well-versed in what makes a watch so valuable, be it the craftsmanship of the movement or the preciousness of its case material. Here is a guide to help you through the many types of materials used in a watch.
Gold has been prized by human civilisation for millennia. Its rarity and beauty mean it will always have appeal for watch buyers, who today buy watches in many different shades and grades. Karat numbers represent the purity of the gold in question, with 24 karats representing pure gold in its elemental form. Because of its relatively soft and malleable nature, gold watches are often alloyed with other metals for added rigidity and thus suitability for use as a case material. Most gold watches therefore come in an alloyed version of gold, with a karat rating of 18 karats.
The metal with which gold is alloyed is dependent on the required colour. Rose gold is an alloy of copper and pure gold, and the combination of the yellow of the gold and the colour of the copper results in a warmer, reddish hue that matches some combinations of dial and strap colour, as well as skin tone, arguably better than un-alloyed gold. Depending on the ratio of gold and copper — and sometimes even a little silver — in the alloy, there are variants of red, rose and pink gold which approximate one another but with slightly differing tones, although the names are often used interchangeably.
White gold is another alloyed form of gold that, instead of copper, uses white metals to achieve the desired colour. White gold is naturally less sparkling than its purer brethren, and therefore is often coated with rhodium to lend it an added shine befitting its precious nature.
Though somewhat similar to white gold in its understated beauty, platinum tends to command higher prices than gold, and is therefore the connoisseur's choice of case material in a watch. It is quite resistant to tarnishing, and its relative rarity compared to gold makes it a truly noble metal. Indeed, some manufacturers use platinum exclusively on their limited-edition pieces, in order to mark them out as extra-special creations. The purity of an object made of platinum is measured in parts per thousand, or simply as a numerical value; the best platinum watch cases are made from 925 or 950 (.925 or .950) platinum, indicating near-total purity.
Titanium is a precious metal with many facets of appeal. It is lightweight, which makes it suitable for sporty watches. It is non-reactive, thus does not cause skin allergies. It is also very strong and corrosion-resistant. Its credentials are very impressive; it also manages to look attractive when used in watches, if a little less traditionally expensive-looking than the shinier golds and platinums of the world.
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